弹指八十载－JLC101惊艳

tintin8 · 发表于 2010-5-31 20:04

While the history of Fine Watchmaking is studded with inventions and technical accomplishments, one of them in particular opened up whole new vistas for the entire field: Calibre 101. Created in 1929 in the workshops of the Manufacture Jaeger- LeCoultre, this prodigious feat of micromechanical engineering has been a watchmaking icon for 80 years.

This micromechanical marvel is still in the forefront of the watch industry, despite the fact that only fifty of them are produced each year. Only a handful of watchmakers fully master the sophisticated assembly process required for this paragon of horological precision. 98 parts housed within a mere 0.2cm3 and measuring only 3.4 mm thick; a balance oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour; and a total weight of barely one gram: its vital statistics are a daunting challenge in themselves! Each calibre is unique, because each tailor-made and individually adjusted part matches only one movement.

Whether contemporary or classic, the Haute Joaillerie 101 models vie with each other in providing a stylish frame for Calibre 101: Joaillerie 101 1938, Joaillerie 101 Feuille, Joaillerie 101 Nodo, Joaillerie 101 Résille.

Joaillerie 101 1938

Joaillerie 101 1938

Embarking admirers a journey through time to the artistic wealth of the 1930s, this re- edition of a 1938 model features a streamlined case adorned with two rows of baguette- cut diamonds. The bracelet naturally extends the dial, while a geometrical frieze pattern meticulously engraved on the sides highlights its Art Deco profile. The hour and minute hands glide gracefully over a dial the exact size of the 101 movement, leaving in their wake a distinct sense that time has stood still to contemplate the graceful beauty of this horological work of art.

Joaillerie 101 Feuille

Joaillerie 101 Feuille (closed)

As if wafted on a gentle breeze, a leaf alights on the wrist and encircles it with radiant elegance. Its luxuriant and delicate lines enhanced by brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds conceal Calibre 101: the leaf-shaped cover can be raised to reveal the passing hours and minutes, and then closed again to help one forget time altogether. A full-fledged piece of jewellery in its own right, this re-edition of a 1959 model keeps jealous watch over its own “private domain” and tells a tale of moments drifting by like precious secrets.

Joaillerie 101 Feuille (open)

Joaillerie 101 Nodo

Joaillerie 101 Nodo (closed)

Two gold ribbons adorned with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds matching their smooth, supple texture are tied in a graceful bow over the dial. Radiating a sense of vibrant movement evoking that of a rich fabric, this secret watch unites Haute Horlogerie and Haute Couture to truly striking effect. Inspired by a Jaeger-LeCoultre heritage model, it reconciles the angles of the case with the rounded curves of its face hidden beneath a bed of gemstones. Historical yet contemporary, daring and yet demure, it is nurtured by a set of fascinating paradoxes – very much in fact like women themselves!

Joaillerie 101 Nodo (open)

Joaillerie 101 Résille

Joaillerie 101 Résille

A bevy of blue and pink sapphires escort diamonds in magnifying the beauty of Calibre 101. The gems arranged in graded shades of colour express delicate artistry calling for a broad range of precious stones required to create such a flowing merge of hues, an effect further accentuated by the extreme suppleness of the watch gently embracing the wrist. Symbolising a blend of rigorous technical expertise and sensual aesthetics, it vividly embodies the patience and talent of craftsmen at the peak of their art.

Calibre 101

Technical Specifications
Haute Joaillerie 101

Joaillerie 101 1938
Reference 2863302

MOVEMENT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE CALIBRE 101/4.  19 jewels, hand-winding, 98 parts, 21'600 vibrations per hour, 33 hours power reserve.
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute
CASE: 18-carats white gold
DIAL: White
HANDS: Feuille
GEM-SETTING: ~59 diamonds (~9.5 carats)
STRAP/BRACELET: 18-carat white gold

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Joaillerie 101 Feuille
Reference 2863301

MOVEMENT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE CALIBRE 101/4.  19 jewels, hand-winding, 98 parts, 21'600 vibrations per hour, 33 hours power reserve.
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute
CASE: 18-carats white gold
DIAL: White
HANDS: Feuille
GEM-SETTING: ~179 diamonds (~11.3 carats)
STRAP/BRACELET: 18-carat white gold

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Joaillerie 101 Nodo
Reference 2873301

MOVEMENT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE CALIBRE 101/4.  19 jewels, hand-winding, 98 parts, 21'600 vibrations per hour, 33 hours power reserve.
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute
CASE: 18-carats white gold
DIAL: White
HANDS: Feuille
GEM-SETTING: ~357 diamonds (~18.0 carats)
STRAP/BRACELET: 18-carat white gold

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Joaillerie 101 Résille
Reference 2823326

MOVEMENT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE CALIBRE 101/4.  19 jewels, hand-winding, 98 parts, 21'600 vibrations per hour, 33 hours power reserve.
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute
CASE: 18-carats white gold
DIAL: White
HANDS: Feuille
GEM-SETTING: ~328 Sapphires (~33.5 carats)
STRAP/BRACELET: 18-carat white gold

tintin8 · 发表于 2010-5-31 20:04

When the infinitely small is given pride of place at the heart of one of the largest Reverso watches, the parade of time becomes an intriguing ****. Enchantment pervades the transparent intricacies of a model in which Calibre 101 appears to be floating in mid-air.

Time suspends its flight
The trompe-l’œil effect is based on a subtle feature generally reserved for Jaeger- LeCoultre’s skeletonised table clocks: fixed to an invisible sapphire crystal, the mechanism floats at the heart of the watch, without even being linked to the crown. The latter can even be removed from the case to serve as a winding tool by sliding it into the recess provided on the back of the movement in order to set the time.

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco for Ladies

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco, Ref. 3003431

In the feminine interpretation, this fascinating stage-setting succumbs to the mysterious charm of a shimmering landscape composed of mother-of-pearl and diamonds. While rows of baguette-cut diamonds accentuate the Art Deco style of the model, the cradle is clothed in a dazzling fairytale radiance: nestling against each other according to the snow-setting technique, the stones completely conceal the underlying metal and form sparkling rays of frost between the swathes of mother-of-pearl. The size of Calibre 101 is matched by the diminutive size of the snow-setting – a particularly impressive achievement considering the tiny gemstones measuring just 0.5 to 1.2 mm in diameter and the finesse of the gem-set su**ce.

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco for Men

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco, Ref. 3003430

In the men’s version, the scenario is played out in black and white. Onyx and mother-of- pearl provide Calibre 101 with a splendid geometrical backdrop framed on either side by the enamelled gadroons of the white gold case. The contrasting marquetry-worked décor pays vibrant tribute to the Art Deco movement, forcefully evoking the pure and regular linear shapes of that fascinating era. This eminently masculine model, illuminated by its mother-of-pearl flange, distils time in an aesthetic and technically rigorous manner that transforms **** into glowing reality.

The trompe-l’œil effect: the mechanism floats without being linked to the crown.

Calibre 101

Technical Specifications
Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco

Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco
Reference 3003431

MOVEMENT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE CALIBRE 101/4. 19 jewels, hand-winding, 98 parts, 21'600 vibrations per hour, 33 hours power reserve.
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute
CASE: 18-carats white gold
HANDS: Bâton
GEM-SETTING: ~278 diamonds (~5.0 carats)
STRAP/BRACELET: Shagreen with double folding buckle

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Grande Reverso 101 Art Déco
Reference 3003430

MOVEMENT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE CALIBRE 101/4. 19 jewels, hand-winding, 98 parts, 21'600 vibrations per hour, 33 hours power reserve.
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute
CASE: 18-carats white gold
HANDS: Bâton
STRAP/BRACELET: Shagreen with double folding buckle