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[转载信息] 2013 BASEL:神一样的 Laurent Ferrier

发表于 2013-5-2 15:41 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式

父辈、祖辈都是钟表师的 Laurent Ferrier 在为百达翡丽服务了37年之后,于2009年离开并创建自己的品牌。

在本届basel上, Laurent Ferrier 展出的作品惊艳全球。

Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral

As one the most beautiful watch movements made today, the Galet Classic calibre bears all the hallmarks of refined, classical watchmaking. An original device is used in a tourbillon escapement, with double inverted hairsprings that keep the balance centred on its axis. The double balance-spring complements the tourbillon mechanism by compensating for the effects of gravity. The main advantage of this system is to guarantee extreme reliability of the regulating system. Indeed, the Galet Classic is not only chronometer-certified by the Besançon Observatory, it is distinguished as the most accurate chronometer ever tested by the Besançon Observatory since 2006.

From there, great attention is lavished on the movement finishing. The bridges that are decorated with Côtes de Genève, the main plate is decorated with perlage, the sharp edges of the bridges/plates/screws are chamfered and hand-polished, and the interior angles of the case back are rounded and polished in a finishing technique known as bassinage.

The case is carved out of solid gold in a pebble-shape (Galet in French). On the dial, there are applied teardrop markers to punctuate each hour, a beaded minute circle and assegai-shaped hands.

For 2013, the main changes to the Galet Classic are refinements to the Calibre LF 619.01, including a new gemeotry for the lever and escape-wheel in order to optimise efficiency and the development of an exclusive balance, redesigned to perfect the movement's rating precision.

To mark the introduction of the new movement, the Galet Classic is now available in two distinctly contemporary dial designs. One 18-carat gold dial is hand-guillochéd in a sunburst motif; the other 18-carat gold dial is hand-guillochéd in a hobnail pattern.


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 楼主| 发表于 2013-5-2 15:42 | 显示全部楼层
Galet Secret

No longer affiliated with Glashutte Original, the Saxon porcelain manufacturer Meissen has partnered exclusively with Laurent Ferrier to produce exceptional watch dials. Two piece uniques are all hand-painted in blue against a white background and adorned with either a Dragon or a Snake from the Chinese zodiac.

Laurent Ferrier's patent-pending display mechanism is cleverly integrated at a 240° dial opening between 4 and 8 o'clock. Crafted from opaque sapphire crystals, the fan-like mechanism can be activated in two different ways: "on demand" (à la demande) by pressing the push-button placed within the crown, or "in passing" (au passage) at the exact moment chosen by the owner and pre-adjusted by the watchmaker when assembling the movement. When activated "in passing" (au passage), it takes 60-minutes to open and 60-minutes to close.

The Galet Secret is equipped with the manufacture Tourbillon Double Spiral movement. In the future, we can expect to see more special edition Meissen dials from the watchmaker.


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 楼主| 发表于 2013-5-2 15:44 | 显示全部楼层
Galet Micro-Rotor 珍珠陀来了~~~

The Galet Micro-Rotor features a stunning off-centred micro-rotor inspired by the natural escapement invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet. This new double direct-impulse escapement fitted directly on the balance is equipped with a silicon lever. This modern construction, combined with the use of cutting-edge materials, maximises energy efficiency, which in turn ensures high amplitude for the balance and reduces the mechanical force required to wind the mainspring.

Again, continuing the Laurent Ferrier design aesthetic of restraint and understatement, the elegant dial is decorated with either applied Roman numerals or applied teardrop hour markers, and fitted with exquisitely formed assegai hands that are perfectly sized for the dial.


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 楼主| 发表于 2013-5-2 15:47 | 显示全部楼层
Galet Traveller World Time

Also new for 2013, Laurent Ferrier presents a dual-time complication for travellers.

Positioned geometrically and integrated on the left side of the case, two oblong push-buttons are pressed to modify local time indicated by a central hand. These two buttons at 8 and 10 o'clock are subtly integrated into the case middle to follow the harmonious curve of the solid gold "pebble" (galet). Only a tiny notch designed for a fingernail protrudes to facilitate handling. When moving from one time zone to another, the central hour hand indicating local time may be moved forwards or backwards, in one-hour increments, by successive presses. Pressing the upper push-button advances the hand by one hour, while pressing the lower push- button moves it backwards, all without affect the minutes hand. ly modified when the hand passes midnight, thus spontaneously adapting to transitions between the various time zones. The window at 9 o'clock maintains the 24-hour display of the reference/home time.


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 楼主| 发表于 2013-5-2 15:50 | 显示全部楼层
Monaco Only Watch 2013 EXCLUSIVE

As an added treat, Laurent Ferrier provides TimeZone with an exclusive look at the charity watch for the Principality of Monaco's bi-annual "Only Watch" auction in September 2013. All proceeds from the world-famous charity auction benefit the research for Duchenne muscular dystrophy


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