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准时钟表网2010 BASELWORLD报导之 国王的制表师PERRELET

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发表于 2010-3-29 17:42 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
ABRAHAM-LOUIS PERRELET
in perpetual movement

Who would have imagined on 9 January 1729 that this little
boy who had just arrived in this world in the mountains of
the Neuchâtel region, was destined to become a master in
his field? More than two centuries later he’s a respected and
much admired personality, and the historians are still paying
homage to this great man.
Gifted with exceptional talents, he was one of those admirable
inventors, endowed with a human quality and humility,
which were enhanced with intelligence, genius, know-how
and passion.
It was at the family farm in Le Locle, under the attentive eye
of Abraham-Louis, that during the long winter days, Daniel
Perrelet, his farmer and carpenter father, manufactured
some extremely refined tools for the watchmakers of the
region,. Thus under the influence of this enterprising father,
he was introduced at a very early age to little jobs, such as
the filing down of saws and the making of small bellows.
He quickly became extremely interested in these watchmaking
trades, which kept on developing at the beginning of
the century. With the approach of manhood, he decided to
go into them on a full-time basis, already aware that his life
was going to very much involved with what he was producing.
His ingenuity overcame all obstacles. In the face of a
lack of inadequate tooling, he set about producing a certain
number of precision instruments. He is notably credited
with inventing the driving-in tool and the machine for filing
cogs. Finally he got round to the heart of his main objective
– or rather of his very soul: the watch movement.
Could one conceive a mechanism which, from one single
initial impulse, would continue to function indefinitely? This
was the question that occupied the mind of our inventor.
This problem had no solution: the laws of modern physics
had swept aside this old dream once and for all. Nevertheless,
Abraham-Louis Perrelet was the craftsman who came
closest to the impossible solution.
From that moment, Abraham-Louis Perrelet devoted most
of his efforts to devising a system that would replace the
task of winding one’s watch every day. He kept on innovating,
and applying his intelligence, imagination and clearsightedness
and he completed a series of new techniques
destined to improve the running of timekeepers.
Around 1770, he embarked on finding an absolutely simple
yet effective solution to wind a watch that was, unbeknown
to him at the time, going revolutionize the world of watch
making. He was the first to develop a rotating, oscillating
weight (the so-called “rotor”) mounted on the movement
that follows the movements of the wearer and thus serves
to wind the mainspring of the movement. This trailblazing
invention was officially recognized in 1777.
Harnessing the natural energy of the wearer brought
Abraham
Louis to his next invention. In 1780, he created
the first pedometer, measuring the steps and distance while
walking. He also became the first to manufacture a watch
with an escapement, a cylinder escapement, a duplex
escapement,
à calendar escapement and an equation
escapement.
He further fine-tuned the finishing, improved
the pinions, the wheels, the escapement and the winding
mechanism.
His reputation grew and soon he was being consulted for
his opinion by people everywhere. Abraham-Louis Perrelet
never ceased to be amazed. His skill and extraordinary manual
dexterity did not diminish with age. As evidence, the
International Watchmaking Museum of La Chaux-de-Fonds
has, what is without doubt, one of the very last pieces made
by this genial craftsman, when he was 96 years old.
Indefatigable pioneer, Abraham-Louis Perrelet remained
firmly attached to his origins. He lived his whole life at the
family home in Le Locle. He died there in 1826, having
worked almost 80 years developing watchmaking technology.
This precursor is one of those whose heritage will never
disappear.
 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:43 | 显示全部楼层
LOUIS-FREDERIC PERRELET
the worthy heir

When he was born on 14 May 1781, Louis-Frédéric Perrelet
inherited the ‘watchmaking genius’ of his grandfather, Abraham-
Louis Perrelet. They resembled each other and were
hungry to discover. Abraham-Louis detected at a very early
stage this predisposition of Louis-Frédéric for mechanics
and mathematics. Having been trained by his grandfather,
Louis-Frédéric headed for the French capital. At that time,
the value of a period abroad to accomplish a vocation was
inestimable.
At the age of 21, Louis-Frédéric joined Abraham-Louis
Breguet, in whose workshops he perfected the training he
had received from his grandfather. He was given the task of
training watchmakers, however his growing interest in areas
related to astronomy, physics and mathematics, led him to
conceive so-called “scholarly” clocks. It wasn’t long before
he proved himself as an independent watchmaker, thanks
to an astronomic clock conceived in 1815 and presented at
the Universal Exhibition of Paris in 1823.
It was during this period that Louis-Frédéric Perrelet founded
his own atelier in partnership with his son Louis. At that
time he was at the height of his career and perfectly integrated
in the very closed circle of talented watchmakers. His
reputation as a man of science extended to all the courts
of Europe. He became watchmaker-mechanic to 3 kings of
France – Louis XVIII, Charles X and Louis-Philippe.
In 1827, on the occasion of the Exhibition of Products from
French Industry, he presented his exceptional counter of
physics and astronomy with a fly-back hand. This article, for
which he was officially awarded a patent in March 1828,
earned him the Medal of the Academy of Sciences in
1830.
In an official announcement, which appeared during the
exhibition
of 1939, one can also find a trace of this exceptional
object:
«…In all of his products one finds the good arrangement
and perfect execution of everything that leaves the hands of
the capable artist, to whom one owes the invention of the
double stop counter…»
As honorific proof of his Europe-wide reputation, Louis-
Frédéric Perrelet, esteemed for his talent and his perseverance
and besides the many gold medals he received,
was elevated to the rank of Knight of the Legion of Honour
in 1834.
This chronograph counter with fly-back hand is currently on
display at the Patek Phillipe Museum in Geneva. Preserved
under the best conditions, it will remain one of the most
beautiful watchmaking pieces of the period and magnificent
evidence of a period of industrial creativity, which was
incredibly productive.
 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:47 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 niceman 于 2010-3-29 18:31 编辑

在本次巴塞尔表展上,创立于1777年的古老品牌PERRELET创纪录地展出了大量新款设计的腕表......

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 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:52 | 显示全部楼层
本帖最后由 niceman 于 2010-3-29 18:32 编辑

......PERRELET最独特的设计是将自动机芯的自动陀设计在腕表的盘面上,增加了腕表的动感。尤其是使用在女式腕表上,更显得活泼可爱。这点,是否和格拉苏蒂的双鹅颈轮摆设计在表盘上有异曲同工之妙?

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 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:53 | 显示全部楼层
......

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 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:54 | 显示全部楼层
......

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 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:54 | 显示全部楼层
......

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 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:55 | 显示全部楼层
......

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 楼主| 发表于 2010-3-29 17:56 | 显示全部楼层
......

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